Monday, September 29, 2008

Log Home Basics

As we start to research log homes, it quickly becomes apparent that there is much more variety than one would ever think. Not only do log homes come in all shapes and sizes, but the logs themselves come in as many variations as you can imagine. Once you decide on the look you want, you can start eliminating manufacturers that don''t provide your system.

There are two categories of log homes: handcrafted and milled log homes. Initially, you may not realize what you are looking at, but there are some basic guidelines that will clarify the differences. A handcrafted log home is just that; the logs are peeled by hand, notched by hand, and in many cases, each log is scribed to fit exactly on top of another log. In many handcrafted homes, the logs are stacked alternately, so the large end of a log is stacked on top of the tapered end of the log beneath. A milled log home will feature logs that are uniform in shape, and the logs will be cut to fit together, such as with a tongue-and-groove or Swedish cope, so that they stack easily and evenly. There is a big price difference between a handcrafted and a milled log home. This is mostly because of the intense labor required to construct a handcrafted home, and because of the larger diameter logs that are normally used. The vast majority of homes built today are milled log homes.

If you see a log home with round logs and chinking, that is a first indication that this is could be a handcrafted log home. Chinking was historically a mortar-like material that filled the gaps between the logs. Modern science has created an acrylic compound that expands and contracts with the wood; it is applied as a wide white stripe. If a handcrafted log is not scribed, then chinking is a must because the logs leave gaps along their length. Some people do use chinking as a design feature even when it''s not necessary, though for the most part milled log homes are not chinked.

The characteristic corner of your log home will speak volumes to the person who knows how to read it. The profile and joinery system of the log will usually be reflected on the ends. For instance, on a handcrafted log home you''ll see the different diameters of the stacked logs. To stack them, these corners will be notched so that each log sits directly on the log below it (like a Lincoln Logs? toy). A milled log that is saddle-notched will stack the same way (of course, every log will look exactly the same). Because saddle-notched logs are staggered, course to course, the log ends will be visible on the interior corners of the house as well as the exterior. This gives a very rustic look. A butt-and-pass corner gives you an end where there is a space between every other log. This is because one log butts up against the intersecting log, which runs past it. These logs are all laid on the same course, so that with the interior corners of your home, the logs will come to a squared edge.

On milled logs, there are many joinery systems to choose from. Today, the most popular joinery is called a "Swedish cope". This is where each log is scooped out to fit snugly on the curve of the log beneath. It gives a very smooth and natural look. Another joinery system is the tongue-and-groove, or double tongue-and-groove depending on the manufacturer. The tongues are cut into the top of the log and corresponding grooves at the bottom. These create a tight fit and stack easily. A more traditional, early American notch is called the dove-tail, which is a mortise and tenon notch usually cut into squared timbers. There are many other corner systems available, but these are the most commonly used.

The shape, or profile of your log is another feature which will help you decide what kind of package to purchase. Many people prefer a "D" log, which is round on the outside and flat on the inside. This gives you a horizontal wood-paneling look, and is easy to hang pictures on. Others prefer a round log, which is a little more rustic and presents many challenges - such as how to join the logs to the sheetrock. Squared timbers, which give a more Appalachian look to the home, tend to be tall and fairly narrow, and are often grooved for the application of chinking. The average milled log home will use pine logs in 6" and 8" diameters. You can also find them in 10" and 12" diameters. Anything larger than 15" will probably roll you over to a handcrafted home. Cedar logs are an upgrade, and can be found in 6", 8" and occasionally 10" diameters. Some manufacturers more rarely use oak, cypress, fir, hemlock, larch, poplar, spruce, and walnut. These rarer woods will be a price upgrade. Because of the superior log care products on the market today that protect all the logs effectively, the wood species largely becomes a matter of personal taste. The best rule of thumb when choosing log species is to stay with a wood that is native to your area. The logs will adapt to the environment more comfortably.

Newcomers are continually amazed to discover that the logs are their own insulation. To compare a stick-frame wall to a log wall by using the "R-value" is not comparing "apples to apples". Logs have a lower "R-value" than insulated 2x4 walls. However, they work on the principal of thermal mass. Because of the cellular structure of logs, they tend to absorb the heat and hold it longer than traditional walls. The logs will actually absorb the heat from the interior of the house (or from the sun, if facing south), and when the temperature drops at night, the walls will generate that heat back into the house until the temperatures equalize. They take longer to warm up, and stay warm much longer. Conversely, they stay cooler in the summertime.

Some producers feature a half-log system, where the logs are attached outside-and-inside to 2x4 or 2x6 stick-frame walls. This adds the extra R-value of an insulated wall, along with the beauty of the log, and also makes it easier to install electrical wiring. Ultimately, these systems are a bit more expensive than full-log, because of the additional cost of the lumber. But they do give the added ability to vary the interior of your house, so that some interior walls could be sheetrock, stone, or tongue-and-groove. In any case, many modern manufacturers use the half-log system on their second floor, to compensate for the huge windows, which may displace so many logs that the wall''s integrity could be compromised. Also, because the large windows settle at a different rate than logs, the stick-framed second floor equalizes the overall settling. With the best manufacturers, you won''t be able to tell on the outside where the full logs end and the half logs begin.

Once you''ve chosen what kind of log you want, you will discover that manufacturers each specialize in their own unique fastening system. Almost all manufacturers use double-sided foam tape between log courses. Some companies use lag screws, threaded bolts, or spikes to add integrity to the walls; others use fancy spring-loaded through bolts that compress the logs. Once again, the choice becomes a personal preference.

It would save a lot of work for the buyer to get a "turnkey" price on the logs, the lumber, the windows and doors, and the roof - what is commonly known as a "weathered-in shell". However, this complete system only makes sense if you are local to the manufacturer; otherwise, you''ll be spending thousands of dollars to ship ordinary lumber across the country. After all, there is no difference between a roof used on an ordinary house and a roof used on a log home. You choose the kind of roof you want, but it''ll come from the same manufacturer. The same goes for the floors, the doors, the kitchen, and the heating system. Windows can be a little tricky; you''ll have to find a manufacturer that is willing to make a extended window-sill (or jamb) to accommodate the thickness of the logs. Most major window companies are able to do this.

Remember that log homes are completely custom. No log home company will offer you a choice of kitchens or bathrooms like a development builder. You will have to shop for these yourself, and the possibilities are limitless. Your builder may make some decisions for you, but you will be better served to pick your own flooring, light fixtures, faucets and even door knobs. Most manufacturers do not want to have anything to do with the foundation; that is not their business. You can use any kind of foundation you want, but you''ll need to contact a local contractor to do that job, or have your builder do so. Almost all log home manufacturers have an in-house architect who will configure your plan to fit their own particular system. Unless you have a lot of money to burn, don''t hire an outside architect to design your house, because the manufacturer will have to rework the plans anyway. If you want a quick start, the manufacturer will have a set of stock plans for you to choose from, and alter to fit your needs. Or you can design your home from scratch, and give them a rough set of drawings from which they will devise a set of building plans. This service is usually offered at no extra charge; there may be an up-front fee that is credited toward the final cost of the package.

Log homes are not maintenance-free - nor are they overwhelmingly laborious. Although the products on today''s market do a fantastic job of protecting the logs from sun, rain and insects, they do need to be re-applied ever three to five years depending on the wall exposure. This "maintenance coat" is much easier to apply than the original coats of stain, and no, you don''t have to strip off the old coat first. So it''s not as bad as it sounds! However, you must inspect the logs at least once a year for excessive cracking (or checking) - especially when the check opens upward, creating a water trap. These need to be caulked on the exterior walls. Also, do everything in your power to direct rainwater away from the house; if you have an overflowing gutter, deal with it at once. A damp log attracts rot and insects.

Expect your milled log home to take anywhere from 4 to 8 months to construct, depending on your weather, the availability of the crew (are they sharing your job with others at the same time?) and your planning. The most important thing you have to plan for is protecting the logs and the lumber from the elements. Set aside a large space (preferably covered with gravel) exclusively for the logs; you don''t want them sitting in the mud. Cover your gravel with a tarp, and bring extra tarps for the logs. The logs are going to get scattered as the crew picks through them, and they''re going to get stepped on and tossed around. They''re going to get rained on, and you''ll be amazed how quickly the logs weather. You''ll have to immediately remove the plastic wrapping when the logs are delivered, or they''ll get covered with mildew. The tarps will do the job. If your windows get delivered with the log package, you''d be best served to rent an enclosed trailer to store them in (FRAGILE is the operative word).

But I''m getting ahead of myself. As you may have gathered, people who build log homes tend to be more hands-on than with other kinds of construction. Log home customers are usually very well informed by the time they break ground - and they need to be! Cost overruns are often caused by unforeseen difficulties, and since your house is a one-of-a-kind, you''re in for quite a challenge. Luckily, the industry has matured quite a bit, and you are no longer completely on your own.

Mercedes Hayes is a Hiawatha Log Home dealer and also a Realtor in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. She designed her own log home which was featured in the 2004 Floor Plan Guide of Log Home Living magazine. You can learn more about log homes by visiting http://www.JerseyLogHomes.com.', 160, 'Log Home Basics, Home-Improvement, Home-Improvement articles, Home-Improvement information, about Home-Improvement, what is Home-Improvement, Home Improvement Information', 'Log Home Basics plus articles and information on Home-Improvement

You Get What You Pay for when it Comes to Above Ground Pools

When you think about an above ground pool do you think of the inflatable toy baby pool? That''s what I thought and boy was I wrong. In fact, above ground pools are really nice quality and are sometimes the best solution for homeowners. Having the pool be less expensive is a nice quality also. Inground pools can take a long time to install and are very expensive to maintain as well. There are some problems with installing above ground pools if you don''t do them right. They are fantastic, but the installation is a big part of enjoying them to the max.

Some of the common problems regarding above ground pools are:

? Poor quality walls or liners of the pool (under $2500)

? Poor installation techniques

? Poor filtering media such as sand

? Inadequate pumps don''t match the filtering system

? Poor quality pool accessories

If you purchased an inexpensive "cheap" pool you can expect more problems. If you experience leaking, don''t bother to fix them. The problem will only get worse. As in most things you get what you pay for. These pools can be a waste of money and only if you plan on using them one summer should you even consider a purchase like this. A common problem is a mismatched filter and pump. You don''t want a filter that is too small with a pump that is too big. Bigger does not necessarily cost more. If your pieces don''t match, you will blow dirt into through the filter right into the pool. Get the properly matching systems from the very beginning and you will experience fewer problems. If your pump is a half horsepower, you should have the smallest sand filter of twenty one inches. Your sand must come in a bag that says it is filter sand. Don''t try and use sand from the local beach or sand that is labeled sandblast quality. That stuff is cheaper, but it won''t filter well. Y

ou''d be surprised what a difference this can make to the filtering of your pool. Since bigger is not always better, you might waste electricity if you try to install a large system. When it comes to purchasing a pool cleaning system, the best thing to do is to get a money back guarantee. If the pool cleaner you have doesn''t do the job to your satisfaction, make sure the dealer will take it back. The best pool cleaners can be very finicky when it comes to above ground pools and some only work best in inground pools. Just know you can take it back and get something different if it doesn''t do the job. If you want to eliminate all of the problems that are possible with above ground pools, I don''t know if that is a one size fits all answer. Purchase a good quality name brand pool from the very beginning, one that has a warranty, repair kit, and buy the best matched equipment possible. Listen to your gut instead of the salesman and you will enjoy your pool all summer long.

Bev Hlavka is a successful freelance writer offering guidance and suggestions for consumers buying above ground pools, patio furniture, gas grills, picnic tables, hammocks and more. Her many articles can be found at http://www.patio-furniture-4u.com/above_ground_pools.htm. She gives information and tips at http://www.patio-furniture-4u.com/index.htm to help you save money and make informed buying decisions.', 160, 'You Get What You Pay for when it Comes to Above Ground Pools, Home-Improvement, Home-Improvement articles, Home-Improvement information, about Home-Improvement, what is Home-Improvement, Home Improvement Information', 'You Get What You Pay for when it Comes to Above Ground Pools plus articles and information on Home-Improvement

A Carefully Planned Outdoor Kitchen is Worth the Investment

Do you have any idea how popular outdoor kitchens are becoming? We spend more time at home than ever before and we are fixing up those homes instead of buying new. Homeowners are opting for an outdoor kitchen over other types of remodeling projects because they extend the size of their living space. If they are spending more time at home, they are definitely entertaining more as well. Partying alfresco is a hot new trend because it is so relaxed and casual and it is less wear and tear on the house itself. Keep the guests outside as much as possible so you will have less clean up indoors.

There are some things to consider during the planning stages of the new kitchen. What is the style of your home? If you have a southwestern style in Arizona, it would be common sense to continue the style outside to the patio and the new kitchen area. It would look odd if you put in fragile looking patio furniture reminiscent of Victorian times next to the heavy terracotta. The same is true if you have a Victorian style and you want rustic log furniture in the back with a river rock fireplace. How do you like to entertain? Is a fancy barbecue in order? Do you want everything you need in one place for the kitchen so you don''t have to go in and out all the time? If you like to cook in groups with your friends helping you, you will need a lot of prep space; otherwise it could be much smaller. If you are planning on having the grill as the focal point, plan your counter around the grill because that is where you will be spending most of your time. If you just want a simple barbecue, how about an outdoor fireplace as the focal point?

Your guests could sit down around the fireplace in easy conversation while you just are off to the side making some appetizers. Are you planning on installing a pool as part of the remodel? If a water element is present such as a pool or hot tub, you might also want that to be a focal point. If you want a hot tub to be more private, consider putting up a gazebo to enclose it or just put it off to the side of the backyard. Whatever you decide, think carefully when you choose appliances and materials. Outdoor furnishing is quite different than picking out furniture for the indoors. What is going to withstand the torture of the elements better than other things? You might want to think install the things "of nature" when extending the kitchen. Stone for the countertops is nice and looks balanced with the outdoor setting. Whatever appliances you have, if you have a winter climate in your area, you need to prepare it by shutting down water lines, insulating pipes, and covering everything. During the planning, don''t forget about storage space. This doesn''t mean just cupboards space, but other storage for the things that need to be covered for winter, or for the pool toys and other backyard equipment you may have. When I entertain I like to have all of my party things in one place so I don''t have to hunt for them.

I usually use them just for parties and not for us as a family, and when I entertain I don''t have time to think about having the right dish and utensils available. The dishes I use outside are all outdoor friendly. I don''t have to worry about my favorite plate being broken on the concrete. They are exactly where I need them when I need them. Don''t forget about the music system when making your plans. It is quite easy to install outdoor water resistant speakers for your musical enjoyment. A bar should be a consideration as well.

They are a great extension to any outdoor kitchen. Even if you make nothing but lemonade for your guests, you will need plenty of ice and glassware at easy reach. I think the most fun in an outdoor kitchen is the preparation. People should feel easy and relaxed walking around and enjoying nature as well. No one should feel uncomfortable in a beautiful outdoor setting. Have lots of seating planned which promotes great conversation. Let the beauty of the surroundings and the preparations of the food provide the entertainment for your guests. Even the ones that don''t enjoy cooking won''t be able to resist the invitation for your outdoor affair.

Bev Hlavka is a successful freelance writer offering guidance and suggestions for consumers buying patio furniture, gas grills, picnic tables and more. Her many articles can be found at http://www.patio-furniture-4u.com/Outdoor%20Kitchens.htm . She gives information and tips at http://www.patio-furniture-4u.com to help you save money and make informed buying decisions.', 160, 'A Carefully Planned Outdoor Kitchen is Worth the Investment, Home-Improvement, Home-Improvement articles, Home-Improvement information, about Home-Improvement, what is Home-Improvement, Home Improvement Information', 'A Carefully Planned Outdoor Kitchen is Worth the Investment plus articles and information on Home-Improvement

New Jersey Home Remodeling

The U.S. state of New Jersey lies on the Eastern seaboard, with New York to its north and northeast, and Delaware and Pennsylvania to its west. New Jersey became heavily industrialized soon after the Revolutionary War, with the building of canals and railroads. It retained its position as a heavily industrialized state well after World War II. However, it is now better known as a commuters'' state, because many people who live in New Jersey commute to work in New York City, Delaware, and Pennsylvania. People prefer to buy homes in the suburbs of New Jersey''s cities and travel to work in other states.

At Total Remodeling, we have done several home remodeling projects in New Jersey. Since New Jersey was one of the original 13 colonies, its craftsmen, architects, and designers absorbed several styles that were popular in the colonial period and also copied Victorian examples. Many homes in New Jersey have been built in the Neoclassical and Victorian styles. Most homes in New Jersey are built of wood, and since New Jersey is bordered on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, the wood does tend to show signs of wear and tear within a few years.

Total Remodeling has done several projects in New Jersey using vinyl siding and roofing products, as well as doors and windows. We have used modern home remodeling products to give a new look to homes designed in the Victorian style. For example, we used vinyl siding products to finish a Second Empire French Victorian house in Maplewood, New Jersey, and received an award for our efforts. The vinyl siding products we use-System 2000 and Elite-replicate the look of cedar clapboard but require less maintenance. Our skilled craftsmen were also able to add and emphasize authentic period details that enhanced the look of the house.

Many homeowners in New Jersey have consulted us on home remodeling projects when they planned to sell their homes. One of our home remodeling projects in New Jersey was for a couple whose children had just joined college-this project took us four years to complete. At the end of this project, the couple hoped to sell their home of 15 years for at least $300,000, which was the closing price in their locality. They closed the sale of their home at $410,000.

Whether or not you plan to sell your home or live in it for the rest of your days, you can always consult us at Total Remodeling for your home remodeling needs.

Dan Noyes

New Jersey Home Remodeling

For More Information on Home Remodeling Ideas', 160, 'New Jersey Home Remodeling, Home-Improvement, Home-Improvement articles, Home-Improvement information, about Home-Improvement, what is Home-Improvement, Home Improvement Information', 'New Jersey Home Remodeling plus articles and information on Home-Improvement

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Make Simple Curtains and Valance for any Window

Making a quick set of curtains and a valance is something that you can do even if you don''t have much sewing experience. It''s just a matter of thinking through the process and calculating for fabric needed and knowing how to use a sewing machine.

Tools needed: calculator, pencil and paper, tape measure, yard stick, pins, scissors, iron, thread and sewing machine.

Decide what color or pattern will work best with your room décor now. Going to the fabric store is always one of my most fun times, I keep my imagination open and get swatches of fabrics (and prices) the first time to see what all my options are. Take swatches home and start eliminating them by laying them next to major parts of the already decorated room (couch, chair, tables, walls, etc). Once you''ve decided on your fabric start measuring.

To measure for material, decide how long you would like the valance to be. Where will you place the curtains in the window? Will you do them café style or halfway down the window? Maybe you only want a small space between the valance and curtain, use your imagination, draw a sketch of the window and do some placements on it to see what looks good.

Once you make these decisions, measure from your top reference point (top of window, top of rod) down to where you want the valance to end. Add additional 7" for top and bottom hems (this will give you 3" for top hem, which rod will go through and 4" for bottom hem). Let''s say you want your valance to be 10" long, add 7" for hem and you have 17". Now measure for your bottom curtains. The same goes here, measure from top reference point (where your curtains will start) to just BELOW or ABOVE the windowsill. Add the 7" to this length. EXAMPLE: 32" bottom curtain length, add 7" = 39". Write all this down. For width across, measure across window from outside to outside molding. Depending on how "full" you want the curtains, will be the deciding factor on how much material you purchase. Normal fullness recommendation would be twice the window width, or at least ½ again as much. We are going to be very basic, let''s say a normal window is 36" across X 60" length. This means you will need to calculate double the width for the valance and curtains, but remember the curtains are split in the middle. Most material will run 36"? 44" (regular material) to 60" (drapery & upholstery material) in width. If you choose a fabric width of 36"- 44", it will be easier to just use the width doubled. If it''s wider cut a little off the ends if needed.

Now it''s time to go get your material! Take your swatch, sketch and measurements with you! I would recommend a pliable fabric that is easy to work with (cotton, broadcloth, etc). Have your material store sales person help you with calculating the amount, and give you any details in laying out, especially if it has a design going a specific way or has a nap. In most cases, 3-3½ yards should be plenty per window.

Pre-wash the material if you choose. If you do not pre-wash material and wash the curtains later expecting them to be the same length, you may be surprised! If you have pre-washed your material, take it out of dryer, fold in half, wrong side out (if you can tell), like it was previously from store off the bolt, and lay it on your surface and smooth it out (table, floor, etc.). Do the same for all widths of material; this will make it easier to handle. You may want to touch up with an iron.

Time to mark the fabric and cut! Your material is now laid out (not many wrinkles). You''ll want to get an even line across the top using your yardstick. Mark a straight line with a pencil along the top (if darker material a pen will work or even chalk if you have it). Eyeball it to make sure it looks even, sometimes the fabric store will not cut it even so it''s up to you. This will be your starting reference point (this will be a cutting line for you). Get your calculations for the length for each: valance and curtain. Now measure from that straight line down for valance length needed, do this twice because it needs to be doubled for fullness (unless 60" width fabric). Make a mark. Do the same halfway across and on the folded edge. Now put your yardstick across from mark to mark and draw a line (this will also be a cutting line). Do the same for curtains. Each curtain side gets its own length (unless 60" width fabric). Grab a couple of pins and pin just inside the edges and lines of each section you marked. Cut along lines. You should have 4 pieces cut, 2 for the valance and 2 for each curtain side.

Once again were going to mark, this time on the right side of fabric. Open up your pieces, right side of fabric up, lay them out straight, using a pencil, lightly mark 3" down from straight top on each piece, make several marks across. Use yardstick to connect marks to make a straight line. Do the same on the bottom, 4" up from straight edge. Mark 1" in on both side edges of each piece. Mark all pieces. Make sure all marks are lightly placed on outside of fabric, but dark enough so you can see them. Sew two valance pieces together, so it''s one long piece. Press seam flat. Fold under side edges of all pieces turning under ½" twice (will be 1" all together, pencil line should be on outside edges), press & stitch along inside folded under edge. Press up hems to inside of material along all marked lines. Fold them under ½ of width and press again. Stitch along that folded edge on inside. Holding fabric as you stitch to make sure fabric doesn''t bunch up. You should have a 2" bottom hem for each piece and a 1½" hem for top hem to slide curtain rods through. Make sure to backstitch when you begin sewing and at the end to reinforce stitching from coming out.

Viola'', there you have it! This process should only take about 1½ hours. Put your rods through the top hems of curtains. Put up valance and curtains.

About the Author: Robin Hall has been a successful Tailor by trade in the Midwest with over 30 years in business. She has sewn everything from leather, to clothes and alterations including home décor items. She has just started an online home décor store where you will find a little bit of everything including great tips on decorating and home improvement. Please stop by and see us/her at http://www.coollampsnstuff.com or send email with questions to sales@coollampsnstuff.com', 167, 'Make Simple Curtains and Valance for any Window, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'Make Simple Curtains and Valance for any Window plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

The Art Of Home Decoration

If you would have your rooms interesting as well as beautiful, make them say something, give them a spinal column by keeping all ornamentation subservient to line.

Before you buy anything, try to imagine how you want each room to look when completed; get the picture well in your mind, as a painter would;think out the main features, for the details all depend upon these and will quickly suggest themselves. This is, in the long run, the quickest and the most economical method of furnishing.

There is a theory that no room can be created all at once, that it must grow gradually. In a sense this is a fact, so far as it refers to the amateur. The professional is always occupied with creating and recreating rooms and can instantly summon to mind complete schemes of decoration. The amateur can also learn to mentally furnish rooms. It is a fascinating pastime when one gets the knack of it.

Beautiful things can be obtained anywhere and for the minimum price, if one has a feeling for line and colour, or for either. If the lover of the beautiful was not born with this art instinct, it may be quickly acquired. A decorator creates or rearranges one room; the owner does the next, alone, or with assistance, and in a season or two has spread his or her own wings and worked out legitimate schemes, teeming with individuality. One observes, is pleased with results and asks oneself why. This is the birth of good taste.

Treat your rooms like "still life," see to it that each group, such as a table, sofa, and one or two chairs make a "composition," suggesting comfort as well as beauty. Never have an isolated chair, unless it is placed against the wall, as part of the decorative scheme.

Marjan Zemljic is owner of http://www.home-decorating-ideas-and-tips.com and author of How to break into the interior design industry. In his book you will find out how you can do exactly that. For more informaion on home decorating ideas visit his website and learn how to create the home of your dreams.', 167, 'The Art Of Home Decoration, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'The Art Of Home Decoration plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

Home Décor Tips To Impress Your Friends

Step 1: Pick a motif and go with it! Don''t pair your childhood bedspread with a new wrought iron bed and lace curtains. Choose colors that remind you of things you love. For example, my bedroom is all done in tan and pastels, because those colors make me feel like I''m in a spring meadow. Other favorite motifs include ocean, fall or sunset. Make it the vibe that fills the room. This mean not just your bedding, but also any framed artwork or standing decorations should go with the motif.

Step 2: Make it smell yummy! A room with a pleasant, inviting fragrance is a great start to creating that special space where you go to escape. Choose scented candles in your favorites smells. Vanilla is always relaxing and tantalizing. Another choice: incense. It comes in limitless scents, and you can be constantly changing your scented sticks to match your mood. Plus, incense holders are decorations in themselves. They can be wooden or ceramic, and some even come in statue form, so pick one that goes along with the motif you''ve selected! If you''re not up for burning, then go with a nice air freshener or plug in to give your space the smell that makes you come running.

Step 3: Make it soft! Your bedroom is the place where you should feel the most comfortable, so make it your own nest. You should hardly be able to hold back from cuddling up in your soft bedspread (I recommend down!) and pile of overstuffed pillows. Also, a soft, cushy rug beside the bed is the perfect way to start your day of on the right foot.

Step 4: Get rid of the mess! Nothing kills a good mood like walking into a cluttered room. Your place of relaxation should not be polluted with dirty clothes on the floor and piles of things "to be put away." If you take the attitude that your room is your paradise, and when in it you should feel spoiled, you won''t want to leave yucky messes lingering among your goodies. Invest in plastic crates that slide easily under the bed or in the closet for out-of-sight storage.

Step 5: Personalize! If someone else entered your room they should know you live there. Fill it with things you love. Whether you like artsy decorations or plant life or black and white collages of you and your loved ones, surround yourself with the things that make you feel happy!

Research from: Cosmopolitan, February 2005

Keith Kingston is a professional web publisher who offers advice on choosing your couch sofa, recliner, or leather sofa', 167, 'Home Décor Tips To Impress Your Friends, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'Home Décor Tips To Impress Your Friends plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

Decorating on a Shoestring Budget

Right now one of the most popular shows on television is, â??Trading Spaces.â?? If you havenâ??t gotten an opportunity to watch this show, the object of the game is to decorate one room in someone elseâ??s house with a budget of a $1,000. The decoratorâ??s truly struggle to accomplish this so you know it is hard when even they, trained professionals, are having problems creating the room of the homeownerâ??s dreams.

Do not despair just because your money is limited- you can still create a warm and inviting home frugally. When people come into our home and see our front room (the only room we have decorated since we are relatively new homeowners) they always comment on how beautiful our drapes, furniture, and whole look of this room is. Do you think I disclose that we put the furniture together ourselves and that the whole décor came compliments of Target? No way! Never divulge the sordid details, just simply bask in the glory and let them try to recreate your look. Here are a few tips for creating an inviting home on a budget.

• Watch television shows, read books, and look through magazines to gather inspiration for creating a stylish home. Although many of the things you look at are completely out of your budget, you can try to recreate it with lower costing materials and a little creativity. Some great looks can be found on www.potterybarn.com, www.pierone.com , www.ikea.com, and www.marthastewart.com.

• Paint is the cheapest way to really change a room. One thing I have learned is to never be afraid of color- bright colors can really liven up a room. Be wary though with small rooms because this can make the rooms look smaller and closed off. In smaller rooms use softer and lighter colors- yellows, light green, lavenders, and white/off-white.

• Getting your home organized will make your house look well-kept. To find out some great ways to get your home as well as yourself organized, go to www.organizedhome.com . This site is wonderful for learning how and what you need to do to clear out the rubbish in your home. With different styles of baskets to organize your items it not only makes the room look cleaner, but it also adds to the décor.

• Target, Kmart, and Walmart all offer great items for your home at a much lower cost. Target has fantastic drapes, tableware, towels, pillows, and furniture for your home. Kmart offers incredible linens, drapes, and sheets from the Martha Stewart line. Walmart offers great fabrics for those do-it-yourself projects in making pillows, drapes, and linens.

• To add pictures to your walls, look through old art books or photograph books. Buy a cheap frame to put it in and you will have beautiful artwork for a fraction of the cost.

• Rearrange your furniture in your home. Try to find new ways to break up a room or to make the room more open and inviting.

• Light a candle and put potpourri in a bowl. This really warms up a room, not to mention adding a beautiful smell to the air.

• Find slipcovers for your couches. Doing this is a lot cheaper then buying a new sofa and when you get tired of it you can take the covers off. These are especially nice if you have little children because it is a great way to preserve the quality of your furniture. The slipcovers are easier to clean because you can throw them in the wash, unlike your couch. A couple of great places to look for nice slipcovers are www.kohls.com and www.surefit.com.

• Want something in particular in your home, but canâ??t afford it? Hit www.ebay.com and bid on it. Ebay always has great things for your house not to mention beautiful antiques and collectibles which make your home more unique.

• Buy large pillows to use as extra seating. These are great for when you have a large group over and not enough seating. Donâ??t invest in more seating; just buy big beautiful pillows for your guests to sit on.

• Go to the garage sales, but go early. Those who wait do not get the deals that the early risers get. Donâ??t underestimate the Salvation Army and Goodwill either because you can find some interesting and beautiful things for your house.

• Learn one craft that will aid you in decorating your home. Several of the fabric and craft stores offer wonderful classes for learning crafts such as sewing and floral for a very low cost. By learning crafts you can make things yourself at a lower cost or you may be able to make money off of this to afford you more luxuries in your home- you just never know.

• Hit your local Dollar Tree for some great buys on things to make your home more inviting. You might laugh at this one, but you would be surprised what ends up at that store. I have bought beautiful mugs, baskets, and stationary for a buck a piece and no one knows that I spent so little money. Try to think outside the box and go to the stores that are normally not known for quality houseware. This is where you get the real deals.

• Purchase all different types of blankets and put them under your end tables or drape one on your sofa. They make your guests feel cozy and invited especially on those cold winter nights.

• Put a book or two on your coffee table that can be a conversation piece, but don''t overdo it. People tend to get carried away with this and then you lose the beauty of the furniture underneath. One or two books are nice, but four or five looks like clutter.

• If you buy the do-it-yourself furniture or have a piece that looks like it needs a face-lift try replacing the knobs on those cabinets and drawers. A beautiful brushed silver knob or ornate gold knob can make the item look entirely different.

• Replace your old plastic curtain rods with sterling silver or gold rods. Target and Kmart have some really beautiful ones with different styles of ends (leaves, fruit, glass) that really add that special touch.

• Try a theme room, but donâ??t get carried away. Remember that whatever theme you chose you will have to live with it for a long time. Go for classic themes that seem to withstand the ages. If you choose to pick a theme for the room do hints of it throughout rooms, but donâ??t make the entire room one big theme. Just give your guestâ??s hints of it.

I hope these tips will offer you some insight on decorating your own home. My advice to you is that you start small and with one room at a time. Do not get carried away with redoing your whole home or you will feel overwhelmed. Concentrate your efforts on one project until you are completely satisfied and then begin thinking about another project.

Amy Allen Clark is a stay-at-home mother of a two year old son. She is founder and creator of http://www.momadvice.com Her web site is geared towards mothers who are seeking advice on staying organized, living on a budget, and for those seeking work-at-home employment. The author resides in Granger, Indiana and her hobbies include reading, writing, and cooking. Please visit her web site for more information on these various topics for mothers', 167, 'Decorating on a Shoestring Budget, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'Decorating on a Shoestring Budget plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

Purchasing Framed Art For Your Home or Office - a Novel Way to Decorate

Framed art is an ideal compliment to any room of your home or office. Decorating an environment using framed artwork is quick, easy and is usually relatively inexpensive. People generally choose framed art because it matches their decor, or because they like the actual piece and conducting this selection can be great fun because the choice is simply huge.

Today, there are currently thousands of artists who have allowed their work to be transferred into framed prints. But this is not a new thing. The world has appreciated the work of artists for many years. While many of the modern day artists go unannounced to the world, many others already have stamped their mark on the world. Pablo Picasso, Vincent Van Gogh, Claude Monet, and many other classic artists will live on through their artwork forever and buying print versions of their work is both popular and common.

Appreciating the work of artists ? irrespective of whether they are known or unknown is an important part of the cultural aspect of life. In order to be a well-rounded person, it helps to build a healthy appreciation for art. A great way to show your admiration is through the purchase and display of framed art. Framed art prints are less expensive than actual paintings so this lets you enjoy the many options for decorating your environment.

Purchasing framed art for your home or office is a novel way to decorate. Framed prints are available of nearly every famous painting or photograph. But what piece do you buy? You can start with a neutral wall paint and then add color by placing framed art on the wall and then add some matching throw cushions to your couch. Because framed art is relatively inexpensive you are then free to change the look from season to season depending on your mood, the weather or a special event.

If you are going to decorate or redecorate a room or office, framed art is a quick and easy solution because the selection of artists and prints is enormous. Prints - otherwise known as framed art - can be a copy of any type of artwork, including paintings, photographs, and more. Prints are very affordable, and look great when they are framed. Framed art prints are sold as bundles or sets together, as well as separately. If you find a great print from a resource that does not sell frames, you can purchase a frame separately.

The frame you choose depends on your tastes and preferences. You can even consider purchasing a cheap $2 print and dress it with an expensive frame for a really tasteful look. Framed artwork can vary in price and quality. Frames can be simple, or more elaborate, depending on the price. If you are going to purchase the frame separate from the painting, you need to decide if you want it to match the artwork, or your decor. Either way, the artwork is going to look great framed and is usually really enhanced by the frame that you choose.

Are you looking for information on anything and everything Art related? Check out YU Art at: http://www.yuart.com YU Art , published by Susan G Phillips, is a complete resource directory covering the complete A to Z of Art topics You can view more YU Art articles at: http://www.yuart.com/archive', 167, 'Purchasing Framed Art For Your Home or Office - a Novel Way to Decorate, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'Purchasing Framed Art For Your Home or Office - a Novel Way to Decorate plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

Seeking Balance in Your Home Decor

In our homes, as in other parts of our lives, we are happier when we live with balance and harmony. Just like the rest of our lives, balance in the rooms of our homes is sometimes hard to create.

For many years, decorators and home owners tried to create this physical balance by having pairs of everything: 2 matching end tables, a matched pair of wing chairs, even sets of twin beds in the master bedroom. This certainly created a balanced room. It also created rooms that were sterile, formal and visually boring. In a formal setting or a Federal or Georgian home, this is still the way things should be to look ''right.'' Our ancestors valued this perfect balance so highly that they created false doors in hallways so that both sides matched or doors that looked like windows so that the right and left sides of the back of a house matched perfectly. This can still be seen if you go to visit some of our historic homes. A notable example is the Hammond-Harwood House in Annapolis, Md. We, however, tend to prefer a more relaxed approach to our homes.

So how do we create a feeling of balance without matched pairs of everything? You can use:
Color Dark colors have more ''weight'' than light colors. Actual size Height, depth and width of an object Mass A thick bulky looking object has more ''weight'' than a fragile, delicate one. Just visualize a blown glass vase and a terracotta pot of the same size. Number A group of several like objects in different sizes grouped together creates ''weight.'' Think of an assortment of silver candlesticks. Light A dark corner has more ''weight'' than one filled with light. If you want to prove this to yourself, gather together a group of assorted objects and use a tabletop/mantel and try out different scenarios. Be sure you have different sizes, colors, textures and shapes. You can put a larger framed picture against one end and a slightly smaller one in front of it. On the other end of your table put a heavy pot. Do the same thing with a matching pot at each end. Try pairing the picture group with an assortment of candles in candlesticks. Each time you create an arrangement, step back and look at it. In fact, if you have a digital camera, take a picture of it. If you do this for a while you will start to get a feel for balance. You can actually give the illusion that the tabletop is tilted slightly by throwing off the visual balance.

The same effect can occur in your room arrangements. If you doubt this, close your eyes and try to ''see'' a room in which you felt physically uncomfortable or slightly disoriented even though there was no obvious reason. A room in which the heavy items are all on one side of the room, almost feels as though the floor tilts. Once you have a feel for balance you can start to create a harmonious home.

Stand in the doorway of any room in your house that you feel isn''t ''right.'' What do you see? Does the burgundy chair stick out like there is a spotlight on it? Does the entertainment center overwhelm the room? Do you have a TV and a fireplace battling for focal point? Do your easy chairs look like they were made for children next to your mammoth sofa? Does your fireplace mantel look like you are setting up for a tag sale? Your room is out of balance.

Move the furniture around and try different arrangements until you have one that works. Unless you have a room that is just for show like a Victorian parlor, you need to be able to use the room comfortably. Once the practical set-up is done, look at the room from different angles. If the room is out of balance use color and accessories, plants and pictures, groups of like objects, light and volume to create an illusion of balance.

Try grouping the accessories on your mantels and tabletops. Balance the entertainment center on one side of the fireplace with a tall plant or group of plants on the other. Note: avoid having the tops of everything at the same height. You might as well draw a line around your room. Repeat the color of the chair in pillows, throws, lampshades or the matting around a group of pictures. You really will be amazed at the difference it makes.

We may all be born craving balance but except for the lucky few, we have to learn to achieve it. There is a myriad of books on the subject and it can help to read them and look at the pictures, but the best way to get a feel for balance is ''hands on.'' Experiment with portable objects until you get a feel for what works and then enjoy creating your harmonious home.

Indra A Books, author of this and many other lifestyle articles is the owner and founder of ON THE GO 4 U, Personal Shoppers & Concierge Service in the Washington DC metropolitan area. The company''s creed is to provide its clients with the ultimate life management experience. In addition to its shopping and concierge services, ON THE GO 4 U also publishes a monthly e-zine and conducts workshops on wardrobe, entertaining and decorating. For more information about the author and ON THE GO 4 U, please visit http://www.onthego4u.net

Content for this article was provided by Suzanne Copenhaver, Design Consultant to ON THE GO 4 U. Suzanne has years of experience decorating in less than ideal situations and always provides us with tons of insight.

© 2005 Indra Books for ON THE GO 4 U', 167, 'Seeking Balance in Your Home Decor, Interior-Decorating, Interior-Decorating articles, Interior-Decorating information, about Interior-Decorating, what is Interior-Decorating, Interior Design & Decorating Information', 'Seeking Balance in Your Home Decor plus articles and information on Interior-Decorating

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time?

"I am a sundial, and I make a botch
Of what is done far better by a watch"

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked "Can a sundial really tell the correct time?" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by "the correct time". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth''s orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles. At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from "clock time" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this site can provide the information. The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this site.

If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The North American Sundial Society has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the Thames Sundial Trail in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the North American Sundial Society has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a Human Sundial, uses the person''s shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a Digital Sundial which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the "Tempus fugit" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein. Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast
Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell,
I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers
To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round.
I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.', 170, 'Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time?, Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time? plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening

Daphnes for Scent and Colour

Anyone with even a passing knowledge of plants knows that daphnes have wonderfully fragrant flowers. And because some of them - usually the most scented - flower in winter, they''re the sort of must-have plants that are usually among the first planted in any new garden.

There are around 50 species of Daphne, many of which are choice garden specimens. They are widespread lot, ranging from Europe and North Africa to temperate and subtropical Asia. Most of them are evergreen or nearly so, but a few are deciduous, often flowering before the foliage expands.

The plant everyone calls daphne is Daphne odora, particularly the cultivar ''Leucantha'' , which is often misspelt ''Leucanthe'' . This shrub, a native of China and Japan, sells in vast numbers, mainly on the strength of its perfume, but also because it''s a reasonably hardy evergreen bush. It grows to around 1.5m tall with leathery, deep green leaves up to 80mm long. From mid-winter on into spring it produces clusters of small, starry, pale pink flowers. Several flower and foliage forms are available and the variety with yellow-edged leaves, ''Variegata'' (sometimes called ''Aureomarginata'' ), is often hardier and easier to grow than the species.

Daphne odora can be quite particular about soil conditions and is slightly frost tender in cold winter areas. It does best in cool, moist, humus enriched, well-drained, acid soil in sun or light shade. Work in plenty of compost or similar organic matter - it''s impossible to use too much - and feed regularly with liquid fertilisers and an occasional side dressing of acid fertiliser. Kept healthy, D. odora develops quickly and is attractive even without flowers, but it isn''t a long-lived bush. You can expect to have to replace it at least every 8-10 years.

Because daphnes are so popular, nurseries propagate thousands of them every year. For many years the plants were nearly all cutting-raised and with repeated propagation by this method the cutting stocks declined and became badly infected with viral diseases that were transmitted to their progeny. Around fifteen years ago Daphne odora ''Leucantha'' was refreshed by producing new plants by tissue culture, thereby eliminating most of the disease problems. At the time, the improved appearance of these virus-free "high-health" plants was remarkable. Although since then new batches of tissue cultured plants have been introduced, many of the original high-health daphnes were used as cutting stock and now these plants are showing viral problems. When buying ''Leucantha'' try to ensure that you get a tissue cultured plant or a first or second generation cutting from cultured stock.

Several other species are similar in appearance to Daphne odora and are well worth growing as slightly different alternatives to what everyone else has. Of these, Daphne bholua and Daphne laureola are the most commonly available.

Daphne bholua occurs in both deciduous and evergreen forms, but here they all seem to behave as semi-evergreens (or semi-deciduous if you like). It is shrub up to 3m tall, sometimes rather narrow and open in habit, that like Daphne odora flowers in winter and spring. The flowers are strongly scented, white-tinged-pink and open from deep pink buds. Black fruits (drupes) follow the flowers.

First classified in 1825 but slow to enter cultivation, it is one of a group of four species known as paper daphnes because in their home range paper and ropes were made from their bark. It was first recorded in gardens in 1938, but didn''t really become at all widely grown until the late 1960s to mid 70s.

Native to the eastern Himalayas, it is somewhat tougher than Daphne odora under New Zealand conditions. Though strangely, British references often rate it as slightly less hardy. Whatever the reason for its local success, just be happy to know that in most of our gardens it thrives.

Daphne bholua is difficult to raise from cuttings and although it can be grafted, seed is the best method of propagation. The seed germinates well and while the seedlings are slow to start into strong growth, they gain vigour with age and usually flower in their fourth year.', 170, 'Daphnes for Scent and Colour, Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'Daphnes for Scent and Colour plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening

Patio Design ? Expanding Your Home Outdoors


A patio can be just like another room in your house. Effective patio design can mean that your increase the floor space of your home, by adding an outside room that allows you to entertain like never before. A patio can just be a rectangular slab of concrete with some plastic chairs and griller, but it can also be so much more.

What comes to mind when you think of a patio?

Patio design gives you the opportunity to create an outside living area ? an extension of your home ? for entertaining and relaxing all year round. For instance, people who like to entertain may want to consider a patio with an undercover kitchen and dining area. By adding a barbecue grill, a built in fridge and some quality outdoor furniture, the patio can, in itself, become a feature of your home.

When commencing a new patio design, it is important to remember that your new outdoor entertaining area does not need to be expensive. There are a variety of different patio surfaces to fit a particular style or budget, including concrete pavers, natural clay stones and bricks. There is no need to stick to one type of paving or surface - experiment. Pebbles, gravels, bricks and tiles, can all be incorporated. A contrasting brick edge can also be effective. Similarly, patio shades need not be extensive, just enough to cover the main cooking and eating areas; after all, why block out the view of your gorgeous garden in the midday sun or the stars in the sky on a clear night.

Consider textures, colors, and materials before starting

One of the most important considerations of patio design is landscaping. Plants help to soften the hard surface of a patio floor by providing color, texture and fragrance and they set the mood for an outdoor living space. Further, you might also like to consider the use of a water feature and some soft low voltage lighting or candles, to create a stunning patio setting for night time entertaining.

Finally, selecting the right furniture is the key to the perfect patio design. There is no need to spend thousands of dollars on the right setting; more importantly you want to select items that are durable, basic in color and rich in style and sophistication. Consider resin coated wicker or rattan pieces that can be dressed up with different cushions and throw rugs. These items can be changed regularly to cater for a themed party or more simply, to match the changes in your flourishing flower beds.

A patio design can be as elaborate or as straightforward as you want it to be. Patios can be arranged in any shape and size and can be refreshed regularly just like the interior of your home. Outdoor entertaining is an increasing pastime ? enjoy it with family and friends!

Nicholas webb is the owner of http://www.allabout-patio.com A site that providing user-friendly patio furniture and patio accessories consumer tips and buying advice for the outdoor lover. Check it out before parting with your money.

', 170, 'Patio Design ? Expanding Your Home Outdoors, Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'Patio Design ? Expanding Your Home Outdoors plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening

Discount Patio Furniture ? An Easy Way to Get the Best

Buying discount patio furniture is an economical way to obtain quality furniture for your patio.

Many department stores offer patio furniture at discounted prices towards or at the end of the summer season. Many people can obtain quality teak or cedar furniture to enhance their patios by watching the advertised sales from department and hardware stores. You can save yourself hundreds of dollars by just waiting a month or two for that special piece of patio furniture you have always wanted. You don''t have to buy the cheapest furniture just to be able to enjoy your patio.

There are disadvantages to buying discount patio furniture. Ensure the quality of the workmanship of the pieces you buy so that you are not buying junk furniture that will fall apart the first time anyone sits on it.

When shopping for discounted patio furniture, you should always look for chairs or benches made from solid wood. This kind of patio furniture is durable and well worth the money you pay. Solid wood patio furniture never goes out of style and matches any décor. Having wooden patio furniture, discounted or not, makes a statement about your patio without you saying a word.

It is also possible to buy discount patio furniture at moving sales. Many people get transferred in their jobs and cannot afford to take all their patio furniture with them, or they may simply not have the room for it at their new location. This is a great opportunity to get quality for less. People who are moving generally ask a minimal price for the furniture they want to sell, just to get it out of their way. When you buy discount patio furniture in this way, you can be sure to save lots of money.

The internet is a fiercely competitive battle ground that often pushes retailers to offer their goods at interesting prices. You can often find discount patio furniture at prices that even the end-of-season sales at your local store can''t beat. The thing to know here is to have a good idea of what you want before your start surfing. Just don''t sacrifice quality when making your decision and you shouldn''t have any problems. We have posted guides and tips on most kinds of furniture and accessories throughout our website. Take a look around, you will certainly find some useful tips in your quest for the best.

Whatever the method of getting discount patio furniture, it will be even more enjoyable because you know that it hasn''t stretched your budget. You may have to do a little more ground work, but the effort will be worth it!

Nicholas webb is the owner of http://www.allabout-patio-furniture.com A site that providing user-friendly patio furniture and patio accessories consumer tips and buying advice for the outdoor lover. Check it out before parting with your money.

', 170, 'Discount Patio Furniture ? An Easy Way to Get the Best, Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'Discount Patio Furniture ? An Easy Way to Get the Best plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening

Viburnum

Viburnums are related to the honeysuckles, so it should come as no surprise that many of them have fragrant flowers. But that''s not all they have in their favour. No, this genus includes plants for all seasons and all reasons; foliage, flower, autumn colour, scent, groundcover, shrub or small tree, evergreen or deciduous, it''s all there among the 120-odd species and the many hybrids and cultivars. Indeed, they''re so variable that it would be quite possible to have an interesting garden of viburnums alone.

Although viburnums can be found over much of the temperate northern hemisphere and even South America, most of the common plants in our gardens, with the exceptions of the Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) and the Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus), occur naturally in temperate Asia or are derived from the species of that area.

About the only drawback with viburnums is that because they are so adaptable and easy to grow, they seem to have suffered from the ''familiarity breeds contempt'' syndrome that sees common plants, however attractive and useful, relegated to the lower divisions of the garden league in favour of something more ''exciting''. Well, don''t fall into that trap - every garden needs at least one viburnum.

Foliage

While the obvious division in the genus is between the evergreen and deciduous types, it''s not quite that clear-cut. Some of the more popular plants are hybrids between evergreen and deciduous species and are semi-evergreen. This can actually be an advantage because they retain enough foliage to not look bare over winter while also developing vivid autumn tones in the leaves that fall. The very popular Viburnum × burkwoodii is the best example of this behaviour.

The foliage varies, but is in most cases a pointed elliptical shape and deeply veined. Some of the deciduous species, such as Viburnum opulus and Viburnum dentata, have lobed, somewhat maple-leaf-like foliage. Variegated foliage is not common, but where it does occur, the patterns and colours can be striking. The variegated form of Viburnum tinus is very popular.

Flowers

Viburnum flowers are nearly always white or pale pink, but within that limited colour range is found a huge variety of blooms. Although the individual flowers are small, they''re massed in heads that in some types are very large indeed. Most often the flowers are all fertile, but some species have hydrangea-like flower heads in which small clusters of fertile flowers are surrounded by large sterile ray florets. Cultivars have been raised with flowerheads entirely composed of sterile flowers. A sterile Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus ''Roseum'' [syn. ''Sterile'']) in full flower often droops under the weight of its huge flower heads.

Although spring is the main flowering season, many of the most fragrant viburnums start to bloom in winter, or even late autumn. Because their flowers aren''t brightly coloured and insects are fewer in winter, they presumably use scent as a means to attract from a greater distance those pollinators that are around. Some, such as Viburnum × burkwoodii are rarely without a few flowers.

Fruit

In all cases, except for the sterile cultivars, the flowers are followed by berry-like drupes. While usually interestingly coloured, the drupes aren''t always show, though when they are, they can be a real feature. The steel-blue fruits of Viburnum davidii are very distinctive and the black drupes of Viburnum grandiflorum are particularly large, but my favourite is the so-called High-bush Cranberry (Viburnum trilobum), which covers itself with bright red fruit in late summer and autumn. It seems that just about any plant with showy red berries gets called a cranberry, but although the fruit is edible and can be used as a substitute for cranberry, it isn''t the real thing. For the record, the real cranberry, the one of jelly fame, is Vaccinium macrocarpon, a plant more closely related to rhododendrons than viburnums.

Cultivation

There isn''t much to say here; viburnums are easy. Except for all but a few in the very coldest of New Zealand gardens, hardiness isn''t a problem; they''re not fussy about soil type; most will grow perfectly well in sun or part shade and some will grow in very dark corners. Good drainage helps but they will tolerate soil that''s damp for a while.

Success with viburnums is not so much a matter of getting them to grow but directing and managing the growth they make. Although viburnums are plants with an in-built resistance to formal shaping, try to establish a good framework of main branches when the plants are young or they may develop into a mass tangled twigs rather than neat bushes.

As soon as possible after flowering, thin out any congested or weak stems and shorten back the main branches. There''s nothing complicated here, it''s just matter of letting more light and air into the centre of the bush and directing the plant''s energy into productive wood rather than spindly growth. If this is done for the first five years or so, you should have well-shaped, heavy flowering plants.

What''s available

There are many viburnums out there but garden centres tend to be rather uninspired in their selection, sticking pretty much to the tried and true. However, pester your local garden centre enough and they should be able to get hold of any of the following.

Viburnum bitchiuense

Found in southern Japan and Korea, this 3m tall deciduous shrub is beautiful in its own right while also being a parent of several attractive hybrids. It has large, strongly fragrant pink flowers that fade to white. They open in spring and are followed by black drupes.

Viburnum × bodnantense (Viburnum farreri × Viburnum grandiflorum)

A hybrid between two Chinese deciduous species, this 2.5m tall bush has rounded bright green leaves and small clusters of white flowers with a faint pink tint. The flowers are very fragrant and appear from late winter to early spring, very fragrant.

Viburnum × burkwoodii (Viburnum carlesii × Viburnum utile)

Viburnum carlesii is deciduous and Viburnum utile is evergreen, so in the spirit of compromise, their 3m tall offspring is semi-evergreen. Its rounded, bright green leaves have greyish undersides and in autumn those that fall develop intense yellow, orange and red tones before dropping. In mild areas the flowers open from late winter, elsewhere they appear in spring. They are white, opening from pink buds and are carried in ball-shaped clusters in spring. Their fragrance can scent the entirety of a small garden. Several cultivars are grown, of which the compact ''Anne Russell'' is probably the most popular.

Viburnum × carlcephalum (Viburnum carlesii × Viburnum macrocephalum forma keteleeri)

Sometimes called the Korean Spice Viburnum, this deciduous hybrid grows to around 2.5m tall and its flowers really do have a spicy fragrance. They open in spring, the first blooms being pink while the later flowers tend towards white-flushed-pink. The flower heads are up to 15cm across and complement the large, rather glossy leaves.

Viburnum carlesii

At first sight this native of Korea and Japan resembles the more common Viburnum × burkwoodii, which is not surprising as it one of that hybrid''s parents. However, it is fully deciduous and a more compact plant, rarely exceeding 1.8m tall. Its flowers, in ball-shaped clusters, pink in bud opening to white in spring, are very fragrant. There are quite a few cultivars of which ''Aurora'' (flowers in various shades of red pink and white) and ''Cayuga'' (orange autumn foliage) are the most popular. Others, such as the widely grown ''Chesapeake'' are hybrids with Viburnum utile.

Viburnum davidii

While capable of growing to 1.5m tall, this western Chinese evergreen species is more commonly seen as a mounding groundcover. It has bright mid green, glossy, heavily veined leathery leaves up to 15cm long that overlap to form a dense foliage cover. Small clusters of white flowers open from late winter to mid-spring and are followed by steel blue drupes.

Viburnum dentatum

Known as Arrowwood because of its use for that purpose by native Americans, this large deciduous shrub or small tree has rather unexciting greenish white flowers and is often rather an untidy grower. However, this eastern North American species comes into its own in autumn as the black drupes ripen and the foliage develops vivid red tones.

Viburnum erubescens

This early summer-flowering, deciduous or semi-evergreen shrub is native to the Himalayas and found in mountainous areas as far south as Sri Lanka. The flowers are white flushed with pale pink and are followed by red fruits that blacken when ripe.

Viburnum farreri

Although less common than the hybrids raised from it, this 3m tall, northern Chinese, deciduous species is well worth growing for its very fragrant pink-tinted white flowers that open from mid-winter. If pollinated the flowers develop into red fruit that blackens when ripe.

Viburnum japonica

Like V. davidii, this evergreen shrub is most often seen used as a large-scale groundcover, though it''s capable of growing well over 1m tall. A native of Japan, it has deep green, glossy leaves and bronze new growth. Loose clusters of white flowers in late spring are followed by red drupes. Regular trimming after flowering will keep it compact.

Viburnum lantana

The Wayfaring Tree, a species widespread in Eurasia, is a deciduous, sometimes tree-like shrub with heads of rather dull creamy-white flowers in spring. It is grown more for its fruit, which is red ageing to black, and its foliage. The leaves are attractive at all stages, starting out deep green and velvety, aging to dark green fine hairs coating their undersides, then developing gold and russet tones in autumn before falling.

Viburnum opulus

Found from Europe and North Africa to Central Asia, the Guelder Rose is a large deciduous shrub with mid green, deeply lobed, maple-like leaves that redden in autumn. Rounded heads of white flowers in spring are followed in late summer by red fruit. The bark contains a glucoside, viburnine, that has uses in herbal medicine, particularly in the control of spasms and cramps. ''Roseum'' (syn. ''Sterile'') is a cultivar with large heads of all-sterile flowers. It is known as the snowball tree because of the size and colour of its flowerheads and is far more widely grown than the species.

Viburnum plicatum

From China and Japan, this deciduous shrub grows to around 3m tall and has rounded, mid green, hazel-like leaves with serrated edges. Flattened clusters of white flowers in open in spring and may be followed by red fruit that blackens when ripe. The tiered branches are tiered make this species very distinctive and are a feature that is particularly apparent in the cultivar ''Mariesii''. ''Rosacea'' is a cultivar with bronze young foliage and pink-tinted, all-sterile flowers in large heads.

Viburnum rhytidophyllum

While this late spring- and summer-flowering Chinese species has reasonably attractive heads of creamy-white blooms, it''s really a foliage plant. The leaves are up to 20cm long and very heavily textured. The upper surfaces are slightly glossy and the undersurfaces are heavily coated in a grey to tan felt. ''Variegatum'' is a cultivar with gold-splashed foliage. If the flowers interest you, look for ''Roseum'', which has pinkish red blooms.

Viburnum tinus

Once one of the most popular hedging plants, though not so common now, the Laurustinus is a 3m tall, evergreen shrub from southern Europe and North Africa. It has leathery, bark olive green and in late winter and spring puts on a good display white flowers that often develop pink tints. Variegated foliage cultivars often have brighter pink flowers.

Viburnum trilobum

As described earlier, the High-bush Cranberry is a 2.5m tall, deciduous North American shrub. It has lobed, maple-like leaves that often turn bright red in autumn. Flat heads of white flowers open in spring and large clusters of very bright red berries in late summer to autumn. It is one of the best hardy shrubs for colour and quantity of fruit.

******

A little searching, especially through mail order catalogues, will yield quite a few more species, hybrids and cultivars. Or you could try propagating your own. The species may be raised from seed, which is usually best stratified, but hybrids and cultivars must be propagated vegetatively, most commonly by semi-ripe cuttings.

I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.', 170, 'Viburnum, Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'Viburnum plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening

The Protea Family (Proteaceae)

The protea family (Proteaceae) includes a wide range of ground covers, trees and shrubs that often make superb garden plants. While some of the species are frost-tender, they are in all other respects remarkably resilient plants that often thrive in situations where others would rapidly succumb. Poor soils and hot dry positions that scarcely seem capable of supporting life are often ideal for Proteaceae. If any plants could be said to thrive on neglect the proteas can.

Proteas (the term is often used collectively as well as for the genus itself) are a variable group. Indeed, the family was named after Proteus, a Greek god capable of changing his shape at will. It includes some 60 genera and 1400 species of Southern Hemisphere plants, the bulk of which are native to southern Africa and Australia with the remainder coming from South America and many of the Pacific islands, including two species (Knightia excelsa and Toronia toru) from New Zealand.

There is an enormous variety of foliage among the proteas. It is almost always evergreen, but may be needle-like, as with many grevilleas; long, narrow and serrated like that of Dryandra formosa; or rounded and leathery like the leaves of Protea cynaroides. Some genera, particularly Leucadendron, include species with brightly coloured foliage, the intensity of which varies with the season. Leucadendron stems retain their colour for weeks when cut and are an important part of the cut flower industry.

Protea flowers are composed of clusters of narrow tubes that are often curved. These ''spider'' flowers are seen at their simplest in the two native species and some of the grevilleas. In many cases what appears to be the flower is actually a bract of brightly coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers. The most impressive example of this is the dinner plate-sized flower head of Protea cynaroides. The flowering season also varies; many proteas and grevilleas flower in winter, while leucospermums tend to flower in summer. With careful selection it is possible to plants in flower all year round.

The flowers often contain large quantities of nectar that many birds relish. Some species have very sticky flowers that will trap visiting insects, especially bees an this slightly sinister side of the flower appears to serve no particular purpose.

The South African and Australian Proteaceae tend to be at their best in warm, dry conditions and often thrive in coastal areas. Inland, unseasonable early and late frosts often kill all but the hardiest specimens. The South American genera tend to be hardier and prefer somewhat damper conditions. Embothrium in particular, can withstand hard frosts and is grown over most of the country. But where winter temperatures regularly drop to -6°C or lower, most proteas require frost protection.

Cultivation

Other than a suitable climate, the key to success with proteas is establishing the right soil conditions. The protea family is mainly adapted to mineral based soils that drain very quickly and which often have low nutrient levels. These soils tend to be moderately acid and are often especially low in phosphates.

Good drainage is absolutely essential. Rich loams and heavy clays do not make good protea soils. If you have a heavy soil do not try to improve it by adding sand or shingle as this will often make the problem worse; the soil binds with the sand and shingle and sets like concrete. Instead add more humus. Proteas would not appreciate the rapid burst of nutrients from a rich compost so the humus used should be fairly low in nutrients. Natural leaf mould and rotted pine needles work well. To avoid these materials compacting down into a poor draining thatch, incorporate about 50% fine shingle grit by volume and combine the mix with the existing soil.

Most proteaceous plants come from areas with low rainfall or where the rains are strictly seasonal. Many are coastal plants although most of the South African genera include alpine or sub-alpine species. Knightia from New Zealand and Embothrium from Chile are exceptions; they usually occur away from the coast, in areas where rainfall is quite high and not seasonal. Nevertheless, they still demand excellent drainage.

Although proteas are remarkably resilient and not difficult to grow there seems to be some common myths regarding their cultivation. Like most myths these have some basis in fact, but they can be misleading.

Myth 1: feeding proteas will kill them.

That''s not strictly true. Proteas need nutrients just like any other plant, but their are a little more exacting than some. It''s not fertiliser that does the damage but high phosphate levels and intense bursts of nutrients that lead to overly rapid growth. Avoid most general garden fertilisers, fresh animal manures and anything with added superphosphate. Because proteas will tolerate poor soils, it is often easier not to feed them rather than risk damage, but you''ll certainly get better results if you apply a slow release, low phosphate fertiliser in late winter and mid summer. This will keep the plants growing slowly but steadily; any bolting into growth tends to weaken them.

Myth 2: proteas only grow near the coast.

Not true. Many proteaceous plants come from inland areas. They will tolerate salt breezes but there is no general preference for coastal conditions.

Myth 3: proteas like wind.

That''s also not entirely true. Proteaceous plants do not tolerate wet foliage or high humidity for long periods and in areas prone to these conditions extra ventilation will help reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. However, most proteas have brittle branches that snap or split in strong winds so there''s no reason to presume that they prefer windy locations.

Myth 4: proteas need a hot sunny position.

Yes, most Proteaceae prefer full sun or something near to it. But that doesn''t necessarily mean the hottest, most baked position you can find. Although they will survive severe conditions once established, extreme heat and drought will cause damage, especially to young plants. Shade from the hottest sun will prolong the flower display and, provided the drainage is good, occasional deep watering is also recommended.

Myth 5: proteas are short-lived.

Some are and some aren''t. Old plants are normally removed long before the end of their natural lives because they tend to become rather woody and untidy. You can generally reckon on a useful lifetime of at least 8 years for Leucadendron and Leucospermum, and around 12 years for Protea. However, large species, such as Grevillea robusta and Banksia integrifolia, may continue to be effective garden plants for several decades.

Planting

Most proteaceous plants are sold in containers and are ready to plant right away. However, the best planting time depends on your climate. Autumn or winter is best in mild areas as this is when moisture requirements are at their lowest, while spring is the preferred time if regular frosts are expected as this allows the young plants to get well established before having to endure winter conditions.

Start by digging a hole at least twice the size of the plant''s container, this large volume of loose soil will encourage good root development.. Additional drainage material can be added to the hole if necessary, otherwise planting is just a matter of removing the plant from its container, loosening any spiralling roots before placing in the hole, then refilling the hole and firming the plant into position. Large specimens will require staking to prevent wind damage.

Cut flower use

Many proteaceous plants make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Leucadendrons in particular are widely planted solely for the purpose of providing material for floral decorations. Protea, Leucospermum, Banksia and Serruria flowers can all be used to make impressive large arrangements while the less dramatic blooms of Grevillea and Isopogon are better suited to more dainty work.

Some flowers, particularly goblet-shaped Protea flowers dry well although they do tend to disintegrate rather suddenly after a few months. Other genera such as Banksia and Leucadendron produce seed heads or cones that can be used in dried arrangements.

Pruning

Most proteaceous plants need occasional trimming and tidying. This may be to improve their growth habit or to remove old flowers or seed heads that have become dry and unsightly.

How far to cut back is the usual question. This varies with the genera, although as a rule only light pruning is recommended as there is a general reluctance among proteas to reshoot from bare wood. Of the common genera Banksia and Grevillea will withstand hard trimming, as will Leucadendron, Telopea and Mimetes, but pruning of Dryandra, Leucospermum, Serruria, Paranomus and most Protea species should be restricted to a light annual trimming.

The best time to prune is usually immediately after flowering unless you want to leave a few seed heads to mature for use as dried decorations. In areas where there is the possibility of frost damage, it is advisable to leave pruning autumn and winter-flowering plants until spring.

Container Growing

Some proteaceae can make good container plants, but you will have to be careful with your choice of potting mixes and fertilisers. Potting mixes need to be very free draining and often benefit from added coarse material such as shingle chips or pumice. Bark based mixes seem to work well but some growers feel they produce too much ethylene, which may harm the plants in the long run. Many commercial growers use soil based mixes and they generally prefer relatively poor and gritty volcanic soils.

Even plants with low nutrient demands will eventually exhaust their potting mix, so you will have to apply fertiliser occasionally. Use mild liquid fertilisers or special low-phosphate slow release pellets. Provided you are cautious the plants should respond well.

Propagation

Proteas can be frustratingly difficult plants to propagate. Fresh seed often germinates well only for the seedlings to collapse after a few weeks. This is usually due to a fungal disease that blackens the foliage and eventually kills the young seedlings. Regular fungicide applications are important. Prick out the young seedlings into a coarse, free draining, unfertilised potting mix once they have their first true leaves.

Cultivars and selected forms must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings in late summer and autumn. The success rate varies markedly; some cultivars, such as Leucadendron ''Safari Sunset'', strike quite easily while many others may be virtually impossible without professional equipment.

Pests and Diseases

Grown under the right conditions proteaceous plants are relatively free of pests and diseases, or rather they''re not attacked by anything out of the ordinary. The most widespread problems are leaf roller caterpillars and scale insects, which can eventually lead to sooty mould.

When growing proteas from seed you will doubtless lose some to the fungal disease mentioned above. This disease, which appears to be a type of damping off, can sometimes also attack more mature plants. It appears to be far worse in excessively wet conditions or after long periods of high humidity. Good ventilation and avoidance of overcrowding are effective preventatives and regular spraying with fungicides may control the problem.

Common genera

Many of these plants are not widely available at garden centres, although specialist growers would consider them to be just the most common genera and are likely to stock others as well. All of the species and genera covered here are evergreen unless otherwise stated.

Aulax

This is a South African genus of small to medium sized shrubs. This genus and Leucadendron are the only dioecious (separate male and female plants) members of the Proteaceae. Seed of all three species, Aulax cancellata, Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, is available but only Aulax cancellata is commonly planted. It grows to 1.5-2m × 1m and has fine needle-like leaves. In spring, female plants produce red edged yellow flowers that develop into red seed cones. The catkin-like male flowers are yellow, as are those of Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, the female flowers of which are not very showy. Aulax pallasia grows to about 3 m and Aulax umbellata about 1.5m. All are hardy to about -5°C and are usually raised from seed.

Banksia

An Australian genus of about 60 species, ranging in size from ground covers to medium-sized trees. The flowering season is primarily from late winter to late spring and most species have cylindrical cone-like flower heads composed of densely packed filamentous styles radiating from a central core. Creamy yellow to light golden-yellow is the predominant colour range, although a few species, such as Banksia ericifolia and Banksia praemorsa, have golden-orange flowers and those of Banksia coccinea are red. Most species have narrow serrated leaves that are mid to deep green above and silvery grey on the undersides but Banksia ericifolia has fine needle-like leaves. Leaf size varies from very small up to the 50cm long leaves of Banksia grandis. Hardiness varies with the species, some are quite frost tender but some will tolerate -10°C.

Relatively few are seen in nurseries but the seed of most species can be obtained from Australia. Banksia ericifolia and Banksia integrifolia are the most widely grown and are also the hardiest of the common species, both withstanding -10°C once well established. There are hardly any cultivars or selected forms of Banksia in cultivation. Species may be raised from seed and most will also strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings.

Dryandra

An Australian genus of around 60 species of shrubs ranging in height from about 1-4 m. Most have narrow, mid to deep green leaves that are often very long and narrow with sharply toothed edges. The rounded flower heads, which appear from mid winter, are usually light to bright yellow. The most common species is Dryandra formosa, which grows to about 3m and is hardy to around -5°C once established (most of the other species are less hardy). Dryandras are superb long-lasting cut flowers and some will also dry well. They will grow on extremely poor soil and generally react badly to most fertilisers. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings, which are often difficult to strike.

Embothrium

The Chilean Fire Bush (Embothrium coccineum) is a small tree around 5m × 2.5m. It has 100mm long, leathery, bright green leaves that may become somewhat sparse on older plants. In mid to late spring the tree turns vivid orange-red as the honeysuckle-like tubular flowers open - the flowering season is brief but spectacular. Two forms are grown: ''Longifolium'' and ''Lanceolatum''; ''Longifolium'' is the more common cultivar. It is a vigorous upright plant that is quite drought tolerant and hardy to about -10°C. ''Lanceolatum'' is a stockier grower with narrow leaves. It demands more moisture but withstands harder frosts, up to -15°C with some protection. However, in very cold winters it may lose up to two thirds of its foliage. Overall Embothrium requires more moisture than most Proteaceae but good drainage is still important. It may be grown from seed but is usually propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Grevillea

With some 250 species, this is the largest of the Australian proteaceous genera. Most of the common garden species and cultivars are ground covers to medium-sized shrubs (up to 3m) with needle-like foliage. However, some species are far larger. The silky oak (Grevillea robusta), which is often seen in mild area, can grow to 20m and in common with most of the larger species it has large pinnate leaves. Grevillea banksii has similar foliage but only grows to about 3.5m × 3m.

The more densely foliaged plants, especially Grevillea juniperina and Grevillea rosmarinifolia, are often used as hedging plants. These plants grow to at least 1.5m high.

Grevillea flowers are often describe as ''spider flowers''. This refers to the styles of some species, which tend to radiate from the centre like a spider''s legs. Some species have ''toothbrush'' flowers; the styles are all on one side like the bristles of a toothbrush. The best known example of this type of flower is the common red-flowered cultivar ''Robin Hood''.

Many Grevillea cultivars are cultivated and they generally adapt well to garden conditions. Among the more popular are ''Jenkinsii'' (a heavy flowering form of the red-flowered Grevillea rosmarinifolia), ''Robyn Gordon'' (orange-red to red toothbrush flowers) ×gaudichaudii (deep red), ''Austraflora Canterbury Gold'' (light golden yellow) and many of the Poorinda cultivars. Grevilleas are among the more widely available proteaceous plants and most nurseries stock a good selection.

The species and hybrids vary enormously in hardiness. Some will stand little or no frost but others, such as Grevillea rosmarinifolia, will tolerate frosts of -10°C or lower; all prefer full sun with good drainage. The species are easily raised from seed and most hybrids strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer or autumn.

Hakea

This Australian genus includes about 130 species, few of which are widely cultivated. The most common is probably Hakea laurina, the Pincushion Hakea. When not in flower, this species could easily be mistaken for a small eucalyptus. It has bluish-green narrow, oblong to sickle-shaped leaves and reddish-brown bark. It grows to about 6m × 4m and mature trees have a slightly weeping habit. The name pincushion refers to the flowers, which are spherical, with numerous radiating styles. They appear in late autumn and early winter, opening cream and turning to orange and red as they age. This shrub is hardy to about -5°C once well established and is easily grown in most well-drained soils.

Of the other species, the most common are Hakea salicifolia, Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea. They are hardy to about -8°C or slightly lower and are easily grown in most soils. Hakea salicifolia has narrow, willow-like leaves, spidery, white flowers that are produced in spring. It grows up to 5m high and will tolerate poor drainage. Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea have fine needle-like leaves and white or pale pink flowers in winter and early spring. It grows to about 3m × 2m. All member of this genus are usually raised from seed but some can be grown from cuttings. A few, such as H. franciscana, are weak growers that often perform better when grafted onto more vigorous stocks, such as Hakea salicifolia.

Isopogon

Drumsticks, which refers to the shape of the flower stems and unopened buds, is a name often used for Isopogon anemonifolius but it can also be applied to the genus as a whole. It is an Australian genus of 34 species of small to medium sized shrubs, most of which grow from 1-2m high and about as wide. They have a preference for poor but well-drained soil and will quickly collapse if over-watered or overfed. Most species have narrow lanceolate leaves about 75mm long and some, such as the common Isopogon anemonifolius, have finely cut foliage reminiscent of Marguerite daisy or Anemone leaves.

The flower heads, which open in spring and early summer, are composed of a central cone from which radiate numerous styles. Some species have short stiff styles but in others they are long and filamentous. The flower colours are mainly white, yellow or pink. The two most widely grown species, Isopogon anemonifolius and Isopogon anethifolius are hardy to about -5°C, but many species, such as Isopogon cuneatus and the temptingly beautiful pink and yellow-flowered Isopogon latifolius, are damaged at temperatures below -2°C. Isopogon species are usually raised from seed.

Knightia

The Rewa Rewa or New Zealand Honeysuckle (Knightia excelsa) is the best known of the two New Zealand proteaceous species. In the wild it can grow to be a tall narrow tree up to 25m high and it is one of the few proteaceous plants to have been harvested for its timber, which is very attractively marked. In gardens it is more restrained and seldom exceeds 8m × 3.5m. Rewa rewa has semi-glossy, deep green to bronze-green, narrow, lanceolate to oblong leaves that are very tough and leathery. In summer it produces tubular honeysuckle-like flowers that develop from buds covered in a reddish brown tomentum. As the flowers open the tomentum covered sepals and the petals curl back to form a congested mass in the centre of the flower head. The flowers, which can smell unpleasant, are followed by conspicuous brown, velvety seed pods. Rewa Rewa is easily grown in moist well-drained soil in sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -5°C or slightly lower once established. It may be grown in any coastal area if protected when young. New Zealand honeysuckle is usually raised from seed and garden centres often stock ready-grown plants.

Leucadendron

Species of this genus are the most widely grown of the South African Proteaceae and many are valued for the long-lasting qualities of their flower bracts once cut. Most are medium-sized shrubs around 1-2.5m high. However, one of the best known species, the silver tree (Leucadendron argenteum), can grow to 10m high and the less widely grown Leucadendron eucalyptifolium may reach 5m.

Many species and cultivars are grown, but probably the most widely planted is ''Safari Sunset''. It is a hybrid between Leucadendron laureolum and Leucadendron salignum and is fairly typical of the genus. It has narrow, lanceolate leaves that are up to 100mm long. Some species, such as L. argenteum, have tomentose foliage but ''Safari Sunset'' does not. The upward-facing foliage densely covers the narrow, upright branches and develops deep red tints at the flowering tips. Deep red leaf bracts enclose the flower cones. As the insignificant flowers near maturity, the bracts become intensely coloured. ''Safari Sunset'' has red bracts but others develop cream, yellow, pink or orange tones. ''Wilson''s Wonder'' (yellow and orange-red), ''Maui Sunset'' (cream, yellow and red) and ''Rewa Gold'' (yellow) are among the most spectacular. Leucadendrons generally develop their best colours from mid to late winter but ''Jester'' a pink, cream and green variegated sport of ''Safari Sunset'' is brightly coloured throughout the year.

The species and hybrids vary considerably in hardiness but most will tolerate frosts of at least -3°C provided they have good drainage and the humidity is not excessive. ''Safari Sunset'' is hardy to about -8°C and most of the numerous Leucadendron salignum and Leucadendron laureolum hybrids are nearly as hardy. In the North Island leucadendrons generally thrive in all but the coldest central areas and they can be grown with varying degrees of success in all coastal areas of the South Island.

Leucadendrons can be tricky to propagate. Reasonably firm cuttings taken in early autumn are usually the easiest to strike but gardeners without specialised propagating facilities may experience problems and although seed germinates well, it is inclined to damp off. Garden centres often stock a good range of plants.

Leucospermum

A South African genus of about 50 species, most of which are medium to large shrubs that grow to about 1.5-3m high. Some, such as Leucospermum reflexum, have strongly upright growth habits but most, including the commonly cultivated species, Leucospermum cordifolium, are dense and bushy. Both of these species have tomentose greyish-green leaves that are usually broadly oval shaped, often with small red-tipped lobes. The leaves of Leucospermum reflexum are narrower and greyer than those of Leucospermum cordifolium. Leucospermum reflexum can grow to 3m × 3m but Leucospermum cordifolium is usually around 1.5m × 1.5m.

The flowers are variously described as Catherine wheels, pincushions and sky rockets, all of which refer to the numerous radiating styles. These are often incurved, creating a cupped effect. The flower heads of Leucospermum cordifolium are quite globular while those of Leucospermum reflexum have drooping styles at the base of the flower. The flowers usually appear in late spring and continue for about two months. They are attractive when fresh but often become unsightly once they die off.

Most garden leucospermums are cultivars of Leucospermum cordifolium and are hardy to occasional frosts of about -5°C, but they resent wet or humid winter conditions, which can often lead to tip die back. Good drainage is also very important. Cuttings taken in early autumn are the most likely to strike but without proper equipment they may prove difficult and seed often germinates well only to be killed by fungal diseases. Gritty well-drained soil, regular fungicide use and just enough water to keep the seedlings standing up are the keys to success. The orange-flowered ''Harry Chittick'' is the plant most commonly stocked by nurseries and it is one that performs very well.

Mimetes

This South African genus includes 11 species, only one of which is widely grown. Mimetes cucullatus has 40mm long oblong leaves with small lobes at the tips, that densely cover the branches like upward facing scales. The small white flowers are enclosed within leaf bracts that change colour to a bright red as the flower buds mature. Mimetes may flower throughout the year but is usually at its best in late spring when the new growth appears, as this is also red. Mimetes cucullatus grows to about 1.5m × 1.5m and is hardy to around -3°C. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and is not very drought tolerant. This species is usually raised from seed.

Paranomus

The most common species of this 18-species genus, Paranomus reflexus, is an undemanding 1.5m × 1.8m bush with bright yellow bottle-brush-like flower heads in winter and spring. The foliage is anemone-like and very finely cut; the flower stems have small diamond shaped leaves just below the flower heads. It is easily grown in any well-drained soil in full sun. Although the plant is hardy to about -5°C, the flowers are damaged by frosts over -2°C. It is usually raised from seed.

Persoonia

An Australian genus of around 75 species of shrubs, mostly under 2 m tall and some quite small. Known as geebungs, by far the best-known species is the Pine-leaf Geebung (Persoonia pinifolia), an eastern Australian native that is one of the larger species, capable of reaching 3 m tall. It has a weeping habit, fine needle-like leaves and small yellow flowers. Most geebungs will tolerate about 2 to 5°C of frost.

Protea

Protea is a genus of about 80 species that is confined to southern Africa and concentrated around the Cape of Good Hope. The species range in size from less than 50cm high to over 4m. Most commonly grown proteas are small to medium sized shrubs in the 1-2.5m high range.

The best known species is Protea neriifolia. It has narrow leaves up to 150mm long that are covered with a fine tomentum when young. In autumn, winter and spring, upright, 125mm long × 75mm wide goblet-shaped flowers are carried at the tips of the branches. They are composed of a woolly central cone surrounded by overlapping, upward-facing, petal-like, deep reddish-pink bracts tipped with a fringe of black hairs. Many forms with varying colours of bract and tip hairs are grown. Several other species, such as Protea magnifica and Protea laurifolia, have similar flowers.

The central cone, often with many incurving styles, is common to all Protea species but the arrangement of the bracts varies. Many have them arranged in a stellate or star-shaped fashion. The King Protea (Protea cynaroides) is the best known of this type. Its flowers can be up to 300mm in diameter. The flowers of the king protea face upwards but others, such as greenish-yellow-flowered Protea sulphurea, have downward facing flowers.

The foliage is also variable. It may be needle-like, as in Protea nana, lanceolate, oblong or rounded. It can be silvery grey, glaucous or bright green depending on the species and it may or may not be tomentose.

Likewise, hardiness varies considerably. Most species will tolerate at least -3°C with good drainage and low humidity but many are considerably tougher. Protea neriifolia will withstand -5°C and Protea grandiceps will often survive -10°C when well established. Proteas do well over most of the North Island and many species can be grown as far south as Christchurch with a little winter protection.

Protea species are often raised from seed, which germinates well, but the seedlings may be difficult to keep alive. Hybrids and cultivars must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer and autumn. Specialist growers stock many species and cultivars while garden centres seldom have anything other than the most common plants.

Serruria

Blushing Bride (Serruria florida) is very popular with florists because its Nigella-like papery white bracts are very delicate and last well as cut flowers. The bracts, which are surrounded with finely cut lacy leaves, are produced freely in winter and spring. Blushing Bride can be difficult to grow, because not only is it frost tender (it tolerates only occasional exposure to -2°C), it must also have full sun and absolutely perfect drainage. It is one of a genus of 44 species from South Africa, of which the only other species commonly grown is Serruria rosea. It is a densely foliaged 70cm × 90cm bush with small pink bracts and is slightly hardier and definitely easier to grow than Serruria florida. Serruria species should be raised from seed.

Stenocarpus

The Queensland Firewheel Tree (Stenocarpus sinuata) is a large tree (12m × 8m) that produces a magnificent display of orange to red flowers in summer. It has large, glossy, dark green leaves that are deeply lobed. The flowers are tubular and are carried in flattened clusters that radiate spoke-like from a central hub, hence the name firewheel tree. It is hardy to about -4°C once well established but is very tender when young and does best in moist well-drained soil in full sun. Stenocarpus salignus is a species with long, narrow leaves and cream flowers. It is smaller and hardier than Stenocarpus sinuata. Stenocarpus is usually raised from seed.

Telopea

Natives of Australia, the waratah genus includes just four species. The New South Wales waratah (Telopea speciosissima), which is the one most commonly grown has oblong, finely serrated leaves that are up to 125mm long with small notches or lobes at the tips. It develops into a large shrub or small tree up to 5m × 5m. The flowers, which are produced in spring and carried at the tips of the branches, are impressively large, bright red, and composed of numerous incurving styles surrounded by red foliage bracts. Several cultivars, such as the semi-dwarf ''Forest Fire'' (2m × 2m) are reasonably commonly available. The ''Victorian Waratah'' (Telopea oreades) is a similar plant with slightly lighter coloured leaves and flowers. Both of these species and the cultivars are hardy to around -8°C.

Waratahs prefer moist well-drained soil in full sun and once established they require little care. But many die during the initial establishment period. This is possibly due to essential mycorrhiza failing to establish. These minute fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plants'' roots and are vital in the uptake of nutrients. It has been suggested that taking soil from around an established waratah and putting it around new plants may help lessen these establishment difficulties. Waratahs may be raised from seed or semi-ripe cuttings but they are difficult to raise. Some success has been achieved with tissue culture and this is how some of the new cultivars are produced.

Toronia

The sole species in this genus is the lesser known of the two New Zealand proteaceous species. Formerly listed as Persoonia toru, it is now known as Toronia toru. A small bushy tree that can grow to about 9m × 5m, it is usually far smaller in gardens. The narrow, lanceolate olive green to bronze leaves are about 100mm long but may grow to over 150mm on mature trees in sheltered sites. The buff coloured starry flowers, which appear in late winter and early spring, are carried in racemes and develop from golden brown felted buds. It is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -8°C once established. Toronia toru is a relatively unspectacular plant but its flowers are pleasantly honey-scented and it is interesting because it is one of our more unusual natives. This species may be grown from cuttings, but as they are usually difficult to strike, seed is the preferred method.

I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.', 170, 'The Protea Family (Proteaceae), Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping-Gardening articles, Landscaping-Gardening information, about Landscaping-Gardening, what is Landscaping-Gardening, Landscaping & Gardening Information', 'The Protea Family (Proteaceae) plus articles and information on Landscaping-Gardening